10 Inch Light Engine Repair Kit (Coming Soon)

DANGER: RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR ELECTROCUTION

Turn OFF power to the pool light fixture at the main circuit breaker before servicing. Installation must comply with the National Electrical Code (NEC) and all local electrical codes. All four (4) retaining nuts must be installed to establish proper electrical grounding, safety, and heat transfer.

What’s in the Box

1× LED Light Engine Board
2× Quick-Disconnect Terminal Connectors (for wire conversion)
2× Thermal Heat-Sink Strips
4× Brass Retaining Nuts / Standoffs
1× Silicone Lens Gasket
1× Lens Clamp Ring Assembly

Tools Needed

Nut driver or socket set (for retaining nuts and clamp)
Screwdriver (for niche pilot screw)
Clean microfiber cloth & isopropyl alcohol (for cleaning thermal surfaces)
Wire strippers & crimper (only needed if converting cut/soldered wires)

Installation and Contents Overview

Step-by-Step Installation

1. Turn Off Power & Remove Fixture

Shut off the main circuit breaker controlling the pool light.
Remove the single pilot screw at the top of the pool niche.
Tilt the fixture forward, unhook it from the niche bracket, and lift it out of the water onto a clean, dry towel on the deck.

2. Disassemble Fixture & Remove Old Board

Loosen and remove the outer clamp ring bolt, then lift off the clamp ring, glass lens, and old silicone gasket.
Disconnect the power wires from the board terminals (pull off the spade connectors, or cut close to the solder joints if hardwired).
Unscrew and remove the four (4) retaining nuts.
Lift out and discard the old light engine board.
Peel off the old thermal strips from the bottom of the housing cavity.
Wipe the housing floor thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol to remove all old adhesive and dirt. Ensure the surface is completely dry.

3. Prepare Wiring Connections

Check your fixture's two power wires and choose your scenario:

Direct Plug-In (Pre-crimped female terminals):

If your wires already have quick-connect spade terminals attached, skip wire stripping and proceed straight to Step 4.
Wire Conversion (Our Brand Lights OR lights with cut/soldered wires):

If replacing an engine on one of our fixtures, or if your wires were cut from solder pads:
1. Strip approximately 1/4" (6–7 mm) of insulation from each wire lead.
2. Fully insert each bare wire lead into one of the included quick-connect terminal connectors.
3. Crimp down firmly. Give each wire a light tug to verify the connection is tight and will not slide out.

4. Apply Thermal Strips & Mount Board

Peel the backing off the two (2) new thermal strips.
Press the strips firmly onto the flat metal landing areas at the bottom of the light housing.
Lower the new circuit board over the four (4) threaded studs in the housing.
Press the board down gently so it rests flat and flush against the thermal strips.

5. Fasten Retaining Nuts & Connect Wires

Thread all four (4) brass retaining nuts onto the studs by hand.
Tighten all 4 nuts down evenly in a cross pattern until snug.

Caution: Do not use excessive force. Avoid scraping or pinching the capacitors or surface components with your socket tool. All 4 nuts must be installed to complete the electrical ground path.
Firmly push the two wire connector plugs completely onto the male spade tabs on the board edge until fully seated.

6. Reseal Fixture with New Gasket & Clamp

Stretch the new silicone gasket evenly around the outer edge of the glass lens.
Seat the lens and gasket squarely onto the light housing rim. Ensure there are no folds, twists, or bunching.
Wrap the metal clamp ring around the lens and housing flange.
Tighten the clamp bolt evenly until the clamp is completely drawn together according to factory gap specifications to ensure an airtight, watertight seal.

7. Reinstall & Test

Coil the excess power cord neatly behind the housing inside the pool wall niche.
Hook the bottom tab of the light into the niche receiver and tighten the top pilot screw.
Turn the main circuit breaker back on and flip the light switch to verify operation.